Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple - Which Alauddin Khilji Destroyed
By Pawan Sharma
The Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple, a historical temple of Lord Shiv, which Alauddin Khilji destroyed after defeating Maharaja Hammir Dev Ji of Ranthambore in battle. It stands in the village of Balwan, Tehsil Indergarh in the state of Rajasthan, India, and within the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, zone 9. This temple is a protected monument by the Department of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Rajasthan, Jaipur. Surrounding the temple, one can see lush greenery extending far, and sometimes even catch glimpses of wildlife. If you look around from the high platform of the temple, you'll catch sight of the Aravalli mountain range.
History of Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple
If we read the inscriptions inscribed in the courtyard of the temple, we come to know that it was built during the reign of Maharaja Hammir Dev Ji of the Chauhan dynasty of Ranthambore in the 13th century (1282 AD - 1301 AD) near the Chakan River in the Nagar Shaili (Style). However, it is also a question as to why the temple was constructed at this very location. One possible reason could be that in India, wherever there are historical ancient temples of Lord Shiv, there is likely to be some source of water nearby, such as a river, situated not too far away.
However, when Jaitra Singh Ji ruled Ranthambore, the area around Ranthambore Fort and its surroundings were attacked by the forces of the Khilji dynasty, and the temples were also destroyed. Today, this temple has turned into ruins. Only the back part of the Shikhar, some damaged statues on it, the Garbhagrh, and the Shivling remain. To reach the Garbhagrh, one has to climb on the remnants of the temple. People have now forgotten about this temple and are not aware of its history. Only local residents come here and worship the Shivling. This temple is also referred to as Mini Khajuraho of Bundi district in Rajasthan.
Location: Bhand Devra, Ramnagar, Rajasthan
As mentioned above, Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple falls under the Ranthambore Sanctuary. When the Khilji dynasty came into power in Delhi (original name was Indraprasth), the founder of this new dynasty, Jalaluddin Khilji, attempted to capture Ranthambore Fort, but his efforts were unsuccessful. His nephew and successor, Alauddin Khilji, also tried to seize the fort and attacked its surrounding areas several times. The Chauhan ruler, Maharaja Hammir Dev Ji, fiercely responded to three attacks by Alauddin Khilji, but in 1301 AD, Alauddin Khilji finally managed to capture the fort from them. Maharaja Hammir Dev Ji died in the battle against Khilji, and it was after his demise that Khilji attempted to destroy this sacred temple.
Architecture of Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple
When we examine the history of temple architecture in India, we find that this temple was constructed in the Nagar Shaili, which is prevalent in regions from the Himalayas to the Vindhya mountains. The structure of Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple is similar to the Khandevra Temple, but it is larger in size. This temple also includes the Garbhagrh, Antaral, Mandap, and Ardhamandap above the Jagati. These sections, adjacent to each other, are constructed along the same axis, enhancing the temple's architecture. The circumference of the Shikhar's base around the Garbhagrh of this temple is broad and tapers upwards, above which there is an Amalak topped with a Kalash.
The temple priests say that after it was demolished in 1301 AD, it was reconstructed by the Naga Mahants of the Nath sect in 1345 AD. The management of this temple is under the supervision of the Shri Mahant Yogi Naga Rameshwar Yogi Ji.
However, due to a natural disaster, the temple also suffered damage. Then in year 2017, the temple was restored using cement. Currently, only the Shikhar, Garbhagrh, Antaral, Amlak, and Kalash remain intact in this temple. What was originally there no longer remains most of the stones from the Shikhar have eroded. However, there is no concrete evidence of the history of this temple. Whatever information is available is known through the temple priests or local people.
Around the walls of this Shikhar, various figures of dancers, beautiful women, and animals have been sculpted in different poses and motifs. The temple priest says that the carved figures and statues adorning the Shikhar depict stories related to the deity enshrined in the Garbhagrh of this temple. On the outer wall of the Garbhagrh, sculptures of Lord Ganesh, various deities, and the goddesses Ganga and Yamuna have been carved.
The sculptures you see are part of those sections of the Shikhar where cement is now applied. Some sculptures are completely damaged, and some have been removed from the temple premises. By looking at the condition of these damaged sculptures and the temple, we can estimate the level of hatred Khilji must have had towards this temple, which led to its destruction. Grateful are all the Naga Mahants who protected and restored this temple.
Inside the Garbhagrh, there is a Shivling established. This Shivling made of red stone is not as big as the Yoni (base) on which it stands, and in front of the Shivling is the Nandi (bull). Around the Shivling, there is also a brass serpent installed, and on top of it, there is a brass vessel placed, from which water continuously drips onto the Shivling.
Miraculous Kunds (Pools)
As mentioned earlier, all the historical temples of Lord Shiv are situated near some water source. Near one such temple lies three miraculous kunds that hold immense significance among the devotees.
The villagers residing near this temple, with priests at their service, claim that these three kunds are miraculously blessed by Lord Shiv. It is believed that a devotee suffering from a skin disease, if bathes in all three kunds with true devotion, their skin ailment vanishes through the grace of Lord Shiv.
The path leading to the temple passes through two kunds known as the Bada Kund and Triveni Kund (which resembles a canal). In front of the temple, at a distance of 100 yards, there is a third concrete kund, which the local people here refer to as the Chota Kund. Its construction was initiated by Maharaja Hammir's minister,Shri Narpati Ji. The local people and the temple priests explain that devotees first bathe in the Bada Kund, then in the Triveni Kund, and finally in the Chota Kund before coming to the temple to worship the Shivling. It is then that Lord Shiv fulfills the desires of the devotees and skin-related ailments are healed.
To understand the source of the water that comes into these kunds, one must carefully observe the stairs of the kunds. It's usually a mystery where the water in these kunds originates. These temples and kunds are constructed by cutting through rocks. Water flows into the kunds from the connection between two stairs among these rocks. However, now water is also poured into the kunds through pipes.
Shivling Jalabhishek (water consecration ceremony)
In general, water is continuously offered to the Shivling in the Garbhagrh of the temple. There was a time when devotees were allowed to enter the Garbhagrh to offer milk, bel leaves, prasad, and perform worship. However, that's no longer the case; only the temple priests are permitted to offer the prasad given by the devotees to the Shivling. Devotees can pray from outside the Garbhagrh.
If devotees want to offer milk and water on this Shivling, then a brass container is placed on the left side of the temple's Shikhar, connected with a pipe, and positioned above the Shivling in the Garbhagrh. When someone pours milk or water into the brass container, it directly falls onto the Shivling through the pipe.
For devotees who wish to offer milk, bel leaves, Ganga jal, etc., there are Shivlings installed on the Jagati outside the temple.
Behind the Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple, on the same platform, is the Baatheshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiv. Inside, there is a huge Shivling along with idols of Goddess Parvati, Lord Ganesh, Ashok Sundari, and Kartikey. Here, arrangements have been made for devotees to perform worship, and offerings like milk, bel leaves, Ganga jal, etc., can be made to the Shivling. It is believed that if a devotee's arms hold this entire Shivling, then their wishes are definitely fulfilled in life.
The priests of the Baatheshwar Mahadev Temple say that looking at the architecture of this temple, you can estimate that it belongs to the Gupta period (4th to 6th century). During the Gupta era, temples were built on high platforms using permanent materials like stones. Early Gupta temples didn't have Shikhar. Temples were constructed on high platforms during this time, with stairs on all sides for ascent. The roofs of the temples were flat. The Garbhagrh of Gupta temples was quite simple, where deities were installed. Early Gupta temples lacked ornamentation, but later they were adorned with sculptures on pillars, outer walls of the temple, doorways, etc. The subjects of Gupta temples were taken from the Ramayan, Mahabharat, and Purans.
If you examine the walls and pillars of this temple very closely, you will find similarities between Gupta period temples and this temple. The Kota stone used in this temple was installed around 1997-1998. In 2017, the Archaeological Department had railings, stairs, and extra pillars constructed in the temple.
Akhand Jyot (Eternal Flame)
On the platform of the temple, there is a large Agani Kund (fire pit) where items like coconuts, incense sticks, etc., are offered into the sacred fire. Near this Agani Kund, there is an Akhand Jyot (eternal flame) burning continuously in a niche. Devotees bring wheat, pearl millet, flour, chickpeas, etc., to offer in the name of Lord Shiv.
Mela (Fair)
Usually, devotees come here daily for darshan (the sight of the deity), but on the Krishna Paksha Chaturdashi, Somavati Chaturdashi, Sawan Somvar, Purnima, Amavasya, and Mahashivratri, a significant number of devotees visit here. On these days, there's a crowd of devotees at the kunds for bathing, and they struggle to find a place to put their feet. The fair witnessed an increase in the sale of children's toys, pooja samagri, cosmetics for women, and food and drink stalls compared to regular days.
If you are a devout devotee of Lord Shiv, enjoy being amidst nature, and are interested in knowing about the architectural marvels of ancient temples, then you must definitely visit Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple once. To reach the temple, you'll need to reach Indergarh Sumerganj mandi city and then either take a jeep, or bus or arrange private transport to reach Kamleshwar Mahadev Temple from there.
Address: Kamleshwar Mahadev, Balwan, Rajasthan
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